transit
Traffic Manager
Posts: 1,272
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Post by transit on Feb 22, 2013 12:38:29 GMT
Heres my model of retro Sheffield Transport 100 Ann Gemini in the 60's style livery. The model was originally a two-door London spec , and the earlier rear end version which Corgi still only do (yet!) The rear was fully remodelled in plasticard and filler , and all interior repainted to First spec.
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Post by metromadman on Feb 22, 2013 17:02:03 GMT
Heres my model of retro Sheffield Transport 100 Ann Gemini in the 60's style livery. The model was originally a two-door London spec , and the earlier rear end version which Corgi still only do (yet!) The rear was fully remodelled in plasticard and filler , and all interior repainted to First spec. Assuming you've had to cut the model down, how do you get it back together once its to size?
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Post by Deleted on Feb 22, 2013 20:26:27 GMT
Looks superb Transit. Well done.
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Post by The Captain on Feb 22, 2013 20:29:02 GMT
Spot on!.
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Post by busman3 on Feb 22, 2013 21:01:04 GMT
Nice one good model
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Post by junesboy on Mar 2, 2013 15:39:24 GMT
brilliant work
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Post by tofskilemons on Mar 14, 2013 0:14:24 GMT
That looks ace! I started one the other week using a First London Gemini as the base. Where did the extra window on the N/S and the window where the door was on the O/S come from? Thats the snag I've hit with mine, trying to get a decent looking window...
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2013 19:03:50 GMT
That looks ace! I started one the other week using a First London Gemini as the base. Where did the extra window on the N/S and the window where the door was on the O/S come from? Thats the snag I've hit with mine, trying to get a decent looking window... What Gemeni are you using? If it's a B7TL Gemeni then it's longer and it needs chopping down so the full window in the middle is a half window.
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Post by tofskilemons on Mar 14, 2013 23:54:15 GMT
That looks ace! I started one the other week using a First London Gemini as the base. Where did the extra window on the N/S and the window where the door was on the O/S come from? Thats the snag I've hit with mine, trying to get a decent looking window... What Gemeni are you using? If it's a B7TL Gemeni then it's longer and it needs chopping down so the full window in the middle is a half window. Its a 10.1m short one, with a large staircase. It's missing the small half window behind the staircase on the N/S
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Post by metromadman on Mar 15, 2013 11:59:40 GMT
I think I've seen recently that corgi (think its then) are are bringing out a B9TL Gemini model of a Finigans (again not sure on name of company, believe its a subsidy/partner of EYMS). There are some shots on the Internet but it appears its the same size as the B7TL Gemini with a few of the windows altered in size, my honest opinion in it (admittedly only seeing a few picture on Internet) is its horrible-some of the full size windows differ from each other. I don't believe in paying £30-40 for something that is quite noticeably wrong, same reason I didn't buy the East Midlands Dart.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 15, 2013 12:53:52 GMT
Finglands.
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Post by duncan on Mar 15, 2013 13:19:42 GMT
I think I've seen recently that corgi (think its then) are are bringing out a B9TL Gemini model of a Finigans (again not sure on name of company, believe its a subsidy/partner of EYMS). There are some shots on the Internet but it appears its the same size as the B7TL Gemini with a few of the windows altered in size, my honest opinion in it (admittedly only seeing a few picture on Internet) is its horrible-some of the full size windows differ from each other. I don't believe in paying £30-40 for something that is quite noticeably wrong, same reason I didn't buy the East Midlands Dart. That is why I rarely buy Diecast models these days. Most are a little wrong, some are a joke. Rarely one is right.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 15, 2013 16:48:34 GMT
tofskilemons - it is either going to be that the plastic runs all the way down to the cab window and in that case it is easy, just strip some of the red off using toothpaste on a cotton bud or if you haven't got the patience weak nail varnish remover. Then you can arrange the windows how you like. Looking at that model though I think there is cast between the cab window and next saloon window so you will need to fabricate a new piece of plastic for the windows on that side, cut the cast to the right size and make the plastic fit. Hope that makes sense
Oh - and if you're going to strip it down using Nitromors (which I reccommend) make sure you REMOVE all plastic components. Wheels/interior and then usually bumpers however the last model I did of the Wright Eclipse the whole front end was plastic and the rear bumper/engine door was.
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Post by tofskilemons on Mar 15, 2013 20:26:20 GMT
tofskilemons - it is either going to be that the plastic runs all the way down to the cab window and in that case it is easy, just strip some of the red off using toothpaste on a cotton bud or if you haven't got the patience weak nail varnish remover. Then you can arrange the windows how you like. Looking at that model though I think there is cast between the cab window and next saloon window so you will need to fabricate a new piece of plastic for the windows on that side, cut the cast to the right size and make the plastic fit. Hope that makes sense Oh - and if you're going to strip it down using Nitromors (which I reccommend) make sure you REMOVE all plastic components. Wheels/interior and then usually bumpers however the last model I did of the Wright Eclipse the whole front end was plastic and the rear bumper/engine door was. Thanks very much 2101 Yes the piece between the cab window and saloon is cast so I'll have a go at that, same for filling the center door too. I've been a railway modeler since the age of 12, I'm now 16, working for Olivia's Trains as a painter/weatherer and all kinds of jobs have come up in that time. However, getting the paint off of this has been the most perplexing yet, non of the stuff I'd usually use works so the Nitromors is going to have to come out! Yes taken the front windows/desty assembly out and the front bumper/lights and rear set too - so think it should be safe now
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transit
Traffic Manager
Posts: 1,272
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Post by transit on Mar 15, 2013 21:44:31 GMT
Hi Tofskilemons, The window on the stairwell has to be cut out to make the extra section . Mark out the area on the model to be removed , with a black felt tip pen. Now you have to remove the section , so i drilled several small 1/16 holes around the area's inner edge . You can eventually move the drillbit in a rocking motion so as to join the holes up. You should then be able to remove the majority of section out. Then carefully spend time filing the area to the finished size till happy ! As for the windows , just cut two strips of 40thou glazing to fit the lower deck sections, and make a tight fit in openngs. When trapped in place , mark where the vertical glazing bars are by lining up from the upper deck ones. They also line up with the lower deck body moulding joints. These should now be masked and sprayed with a satin black. When thoroughly dry , remask to do the horizontal bars (top and bottom plus vents ) When the model is ready , glue the glazing in with 2 pack adhesive almost flush with the outside.
Another problem you will encounter when you have removed this window , is that the back of the staircase is visible, so that has to be reduced in length so as not to obstruct the new window !
Just a word of warning , the rear is totally different to the Mk 1 model casting , and i had to rebuild the whole rearend and slightly alter the side shrouds also . Let me know if you need advice on this area also ! Hope this helps !
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